Review: Marcus Samuelsson’s Red Rooster Harlem Restaurant, NYC

Marcus Samuelsson; photo by Matt Dutile; courtesy of Red Rooster

Known for its exquisite cuisine, Red Rooster Harlem has been a go-to destination since co-owners Marcus Samuelsson and Andrew Chapman was first opened it in 2011. The celebratory community vibe of the restaurant as well as the incredible music and art are all factors in the success of this fantastic culinary experience. The legendary Chef Marcus Samuelsson was the youngest chef to ever receive two three-star ratings from the New York Times while at Aquavit as Executive Chef. He has had the privilege of being a guest chef for the first State Dinner of the Obama administration. He also was the winner of Top Chef Masters (Season 2, 2010).

Red Rooster Harlem

“Red Rooster was inspired by the original Red Rooster, a speakeasy in Harlem in the 1930s. It was a place where a local politician or maid or famous person could all come together, said Samuelsson. It was accepting of all kinds of people, very inclusive which is what I was going for.” Harlem is special to Samuelsson since his mother encouraged him to open a restaurant in a neighborhood he was passionate about.

Samuelsson has opened numerous restaurants…several in the NYC area, Miami, Atlanta, and all over the world. Downstairs is another spectacular venue called the Ginny’s Supper Club and home to the well-known Gospel Brunch, featuring Vy Higginsen’s Gospel Choir of Harlem.

From left to right: Leon Johnson and Tynae Lester; photo by Richard Bilow; courtesy of ETG

The Vibe

We were greeted by a cheery manager named Tynae Lester who has worked at the restaurant for nearly five years. He filled me in on the weekly music schedule which featured an eclectic mix of styles – Jazz, Latin Jazz, World Music, DJs and more. ”Jazz has definitely played a big part of my life,” laughed Lester. “It’s sexy, it’s elegant, and it says class.”

The Cuisine

I ordered a delicious Malbec (Susanna Balbo Crios, 2014, Mendoza) – a fruity full bodied red, with cherry overtones. The place was starting to jump when the Yep Chicken and Waffles circa 1930 (Jesus’ hot breath, Vermont syrup, pickle chips) arrived at the table. The chicken was so crunchy, and offered a bit of spice. The warm crispy waffles were a perfect complement to the dish, along with the zesty cilantro dip.

Red Rooster, Yep Chicken and Waffles circa 1930; photo by Richard Bilow; courtesy of ETG

Next, we enjoyed the Warm Beef Kitfo (beef tartare, berbere spiced yogurt, awase vinaigrette, fried Injera) and Sister Franny’s Crab Toast (blue crab, cheddar, ginger, yum tom, crispy shallots, cilantro, grilled flat bread). Both dishes were sensational. The Warm Beef Kitfo offered a multi-dimensional spice pairing. It was an exquisite flavor, but Sister Franny’s Crab Toast knocked my socks off. The delicate crab mixed with cheddar was a wonderful savory combination, but the spicy sauce and jalapeños on top brought my taste buds to a whole new level. Dessert was also delightful. We enjoyed La Isla Bonita (tres leche, cake rum, passion fruit and banana), and Coffee and Doughnuts (dulce de leche ice cream and mocha).

Sister Franny’s Crab Toast; photo by Richard Bilow; courtesy of ETG

The Band

For a weekday evening, the Red Rooster attracted a huge crowd. The Rakiem Walker Project (RWP) played to a group of enthusiastic fans. The room was sizzling. The jazz band played from 8-12am and featured horns, drums, vocals, guitar, keyboards, etc., with many guest performers jumping in.

After talking to Lester and Johnson, I soon realized the restaurant staff and musicians were a tight knit family. The ambiance included food, music, art, and cookbook to boot. Red Rooster Cookbook: The Story of Food and Hustle in Harlem was recently published. It features recipes of many of the restaurant’s top dishes. Samuelsson has long been a lover of jazz. His book tour in October/November of 2016 featured the Rakiem Walker Project. Samuelsson’s idea was to bring a slice of Harlem life with him on the book tour. So he invited the band and the dance group W.A.F.F.L.E., there for creating an unusual and exciting experience.

Two Brotha’s, Two Musicians by Leon Johnson, 11.5 X 13, mixed media, 2015; Artwork is featured in the Red Rooster Cookbook: The Story of Food and Hustle in Harlem; Original art is on view at the Red Rooster

The Art

In addition to Johnson’s illustrations being used in the cookbook, they are also on display at the Red Rooster. “I like my work to come together like jazz, incorporating every line, every mark, every splat of ink in order to create my visual song.”  Other artists who have work featured on the walls of the restaurant include Brandon Coley Cox, Bobby Fisher, Lorna Simpson and more.

Red Rooster Dining Room; photo by Richard Bilow; courtesy of ETG

Next time you are in New York City, head to Red Rooster Harlem for some comfort food, camaraderie, as well as fantastic art and live music. Red Rooster Harlem, 310 Lenox Avenue, New York, NY 10027; http://www.redroosterharlem.com

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